These tanks have a 3-year warranty but should last indefinitely so long as you take care of them. Septic tanks need to be pumped out every two years and follow the installation instructions. Some water tank installations may need to be rinsed out from time to time depending on the hardness of the water.

Q. What is the difference between the steel and polythylene tanks?

Steel tanks will eventually corrode.

Q. Can you fix cracks in a poly tank?

We can make repairs in our tanks. Every manufacturer uses a slightly different polyethylene resin so our plastic welding won’t match a different brand’s product and will crack at the new weld.

Q. What fittings come with the polyethylene underground water tanks?

There are 2 each 2” fittings on each manhole located on top of the tank. A total of 4 each 2” female threaded openings per tank is the stock layout but this can also be changed to some extent.

Q. Are there any other modifications you can make to the tanks?

Yes, we can put heat tape, foam & poly shield topcoat to protect the foam, as well as a vent/overfill fill set-up.

Q. Do you have to put water in the tanks before burying?

No, our polyethylene tanks are built tough enough to be buried with no water in them. If you are in a high water table situation, follow the installation instructions. When you prepare the excavation for tank installation, be sure to keep any water in the excavation pumped out during the installation process.

Q. Why isn’t there a lifting lug on the underground plastic tanks?

We have modified all of our underground tank molds and we now have lift eyes on each of the tank’s models and sizes.

Q. Can we change the fitting on the poly tanks?

Most tanks can have different configurations of openings, we need to do these on a one-by-one basis and so they may take longer to produce.

Q. What kind of pad do the above and belowground poly tanks need to be set on?

The aboveground tanks should be a solid flat gravel pad with no sharp rocks or objects protruding up towards the base of the tank to be placed.

Manufacturing Process

Here at Greer, our molds make more than just jello. They make the strongest, lightest, and most unique tanks around, all done locally from our Fairbanks location.

Step 1. Loading

The molds are filled with powder and are then gyrated around, allowing the powder to coat all sides.

Step 2. Cooking

Then the mold swings into an oven where the powder is melted and gyrated some more to make sure every nook and cranny inside is coated evenly.

Step 3. Cooling

Next, the mold is moved to the cooling chamber where still gyrating, it is left to cool and harden.

Step 4. Unloading

Lastly, the mold is opened and the new tank removed. End result – a highly durable, high-grade polyethylene tank ready for use.

Proudly

#1 Tank Fabricator

Over 65 years old…